Click Here: ADELAIDE CROWS 2019 MEN’S HOME GUERNSEY
Models in zombie make-up and a growing number
of women on the catwalks were among the eye-catching features of Men’s Fashion
Week, which wrapped up in London on Monday.
The models from the Art School collection by designer duo Eden Loweth and
Tom Barratt wore white contact lenses and vacant expressions as they sashayed
down the catwalk.
The show was accompanied by the live sounds of singer-guitarist Anna Calvi,
surrounded by an occult salt circle.
Barratt himself took part in the catwalk show wearing a leopard-print dress
showing part of his torso.
Blurred lines
Highlighting the trend of gender fluidity, more women took part in the
catwalk shows and the line between masculine and feminine styles was
increasingly blurred.
“I don’t think it is especially modern to tell people what they should
wear. I think it is for them to choose,” designer Edward Crutchley, one of the
rising stars of British fashion, told journalists after his show.
“It is never a piece designed for a man or a woman, it is never
specifically gendered,” he said of his collection, featuring baggy trousers,
plunging necklines and summery prints with flowers and parrots in soft pastels.
“I wanted beauty and glamour and I wanted that it looked expensive…
because it is expensive!” he said.
Chunky trainers
Worn with a blue wool jacket with purple satin sleeves at Alexander McQueen
or with a canary yellow and turquoise number at Iceberg, chunky basketball
trainers were as ubiquitous as they would have been in the 1980s.
Irish designer Robyn Lynch meanwhile went for more casual footwear comfort
with large sandals worn with socks.
Burnt orange
The spring/summer collections for next year looked like a sunset to sea.
The dominant colours were burnt orange, sand and sky blue, including in the
collection by Turkish designer Hussein Chalayan.
Named “Post-Colonial Body”, the collection explores the influence of
colonisation on Japan and South America.
Orange and blue also featured in the collection by Oliver Spencer, who was
inspired by the night markets of Hong Kong and Wong Kar-wai’s cult film “In
the Mood for Love”.
Spencer told AFP after the show that his style was that of “a travelling
guy… he is very sustainable, he is really into linen, into organic cottons,
he cares about the environment.
“He wants to invest in good pieces of clothing, he doesn’t want short fast
fashion,” he said.
‘Le Goth sportif’
Black jumpers, heavy chains and earrings worn with basketball pumps with
Vibram soles. This was the look that Italian fashion house Iceberg dubbed “Le
Goth sportif”.
Saul Nash also re-imagined sportswear with his collection featuring
technical performance wear pieces such as white running vests, steel gray
nylon pants and blue tracksuits.
The designs by Nash, a dancer and designer, were loose-fitting to allow for
easier movement. Nash said he was “inspired by the kinetic body and the
subversion of sportswear”.(AFP)
Photos: Art School, Chalayan, Iceberg et Edward Crutchley SS19/20, via Catwalkpictures