It was the penultimate day of NYFW, and it was everything that the fashion
industry could have ever dreamed of. From pretty in pink designs by Malan
Breton, the glamour of Hugo Boss brought to us by Jason Wu, and of course
everything luxurious from the master of American luxury, Michael Kors. As
people begin to make their preparations for London Fashion Week and the
numbers are dwindling away at Lincoln Center and downtown, audience crammed
into spaces at Lincoln Center and all over NYC for one more day to
celebrate the whimsical dream that is NYFW.
The first show of the day was Malan Breton’s, the man known for his
signature detailing and fabrics, who can probably be recognized from an
episode of “Project Runway” or “The Today Show.” Breton gave us a
collection that was pretty in pink for men and women, as well as having a
neo-futurist vibe with the final outfit being a dress reminiscent of
Princess Leia from Star Wars that had a train that was carried by six men
in unconventionally stylish orange suits. It’s easy to see how Breton
became such a beloved designer, because his out of the box designs were
just what every fashionista ordered. For a man that never went to design
school he sure knows how to wow a crowd, and is sure to have people
clamoring to buy his collection.
When you send an ombré fox striped bathrobe down the runway you are
guaranteed to have a collection that is epitome of all American opulence
and desirability. Take a page out of Michael Kors’ book and realize that
this is how you NYFW. The designer who was catapulted to billionaire status
last year, and is looking at turning his label into a global enterprise had
no room for error if he expects people to take him seriously as a world
fashion super power the likes of Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein. The
collection he sent down the runway not included staples for him like fur,
but also tweed boucle and wool trench coats, all the things to love about
fall/winter 2015/2016. You can bet this collection will be on every buyers
must have list, and will help Kors retain his billionaire status.
Paula Thomas was all about having her label Thomas Wylde see how much fun
you can have with black and white this season, and reminded us that neutral
colors don’t always have to be boring. The designer gave us a collection of
deconstructed black leather jackets, a layered white jacket, and separates
that would be perfect to mix-and-match with. With the announcement of her
first flagship store being launched this year in Los Angeles, and this
being their first NYFW show Thomas had a lot riding on this collection,
but, it looks like she has put herself in good graces, and can trust the
launch of her store to be a success.
Bibhu Mohapatra is a true saint to the fashion industry for bringing us his
luxurious Indian inspired patterns, never failing to let the influence of
his birth country permeate through his beautiful designs. While this
collection wasn’t heavy on the patterns, the rich colors he used from the
rust oranges to oxblood red’s made this collection so enticing you couldn’t
take your eyes off a single dress. It’s no secret how Mohapatra made it
into the CFDA in 2011, because with a collection like this how could they
not welcome you with open arms. This collection is sure to be on every
buyers best must have list, further solidifying Mohapatra’s place among the
design elite.
Lie Sangbong’s collection included a lot of pieces that were very simple
that would easily make their way into department stores, but there were a
few pieces of his collection that really stood out, like his red boucle and
leather coat that would help a woman part an entire sidewalk of people if
she walked down the street in it. The pieces in this collection that popped
really popped. Other fabulous standout pieces included a high collared
burgundy and beige dress and a graphic print asymmetrical side dress. The
standout pieces are sure to help Sangbong bring in some major revenue, and
help Asia continue their increased influence in the fashion industry.
The best thing Hugo Boss ever did was name Jason Wu their designer for
women’s. While Boss might be struggling with their revenue, which only
increased 6 percent last year, Jason Wu has been their Godsend with their
women’s collections so continuous increase in sales, and actually becoming
highly coveted by fashionistas the world over. For the fall/winter season
Wu gave us several fabulous pieces, including a color block navy blue and
red-orange dress, a well tailored belted black coat, and a woman’s pants
suit that was a true gem of power and sophistication. With Hugo Boss trying
to improve their revenue, Wu is again seen as their golden ticket, and it’s
no wonder why. With a collection like this Boss is sure to see some major
financial gains this year.
Francesca Liberatore’s fall/winter 2015/2016 collection included silk
printed shirts, skirts, dresses, and jackets of all varying lengths and
forms. It was a collection that was in proper taste, albeit nothing too
ostentatious. She really has a concept of the right amount of art needed in
a collection, and that works to her favor. The collection is sure to catch
the attention of those luxury buyers looking for all the right graphic
prints for their department stores this season, and they need to look no
further than Liberatore’s well curated collection.
The penultimate day of NYFW brought out massive crowds
The most interesting thing about Leanne Marshall’s show was the Amazon
styled women who were styled to look like they had a place among the Greek
goddesses. As for the clothes, while the style inspiration was clearly
there, the wow factor was not. The collection took a lot of neutral colors
and tried to make them into very sexy and sophisticated gowns, but there
was never anything too interesting happening. While the simplicity and
functional look to her collection might help her get in the big department
stores none of these dresses are ending up on anyone’s best dressed list
anytime soon.
When everyone walks out of a fashion show and they can’t stop talking about
you for all the right reasons you know that you have done your job. Anna
Sui was that designer whose name was on everyone’s list last night after
she presented a Scandinavian inspired collection that included Mongolian
lamb hemmed onto a black-velvet parka and a coat made from scraps of mink.
It was a wild and luxurious collection that showcased the freedom and power
of womanhood coupled with all the glamour and luxury of fashion. Sui is
sure to have people banging down the doors of her Soho boutique come fall
with this collection.
Iijin’s fall/winter 2015/2016 collection was all about street style and
looking perfect in plaid. The collection included plaid pants, varsity
jackets, and tons of graphic prints featured small animated characters and
caricatures that the label is known for. It was perhaps one of the best
examples of street style showcased all fashion week, and with street style
being so major right now, the label couldn’t have picked a better time to
showcase their collection at NYFW. Designer Cassian Lau is all about the
art, also being a painter and illustrator, respectfully, and this
collection is the perfect fusion of art meets street wear that is sure to
bring in some major revenue for the label.
The B Michael America show was the epitome and prime example of American
elegance, design, and glamour. The collection was shown on an arena stage
setting, and included everything from a scarf-tie coat, to a shawl collar
wrap jacket, and a strapless waterfall bustier dress with ribbon
embroidered lace in turquoise and onyx. As a member of the CFDA, and one of
the most beloved fashion designers around, B Michael made sure not to
disappoint his audiences and gave them a collection that caused the
audience to give him a standing ovation at the end, not a feat too many
designers at NYFW have accomplished. It was a breath taking collection that
is sure to sell like hot cakes, and remind us why we fell in love with B
Michael all those many years ago.
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