New designers at Hermès, Nina Ricci and Adam Andrascik will be turning
heads at Paris fashion this week, but all eyes will be on John Galliano,
recently returned from disgrace.
Fresh from shows in New York, London and Milan, the fashion world returns
to Paris on Tuesday for nine days of autumn/winter collections. There are
92 ready-to-wear shows on the bill, with some 50 additional events on the
sidelines.
Among the most hotly anticipated — the first collection for Hermes from
Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, who took over from Christophe Lemaire as the luxury
brand’s new head of women’s fashion.
The 36-year-old cut her teeth at Celine and Maison Martin Margiela, and
previously headed up the design studio at The Row, owned by US actresses
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.
And the flashbulbs will certainly be going when Galliano presents his first
ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela on Friday. The Brit designer
made his comeback to the catwalk in January in London, after being shut out
of the fashion world for three-and-a-half years following an anti-Semitic
rant in a Paris cafe that saw him fired from Dior.
His collection in London was praised for combining his trademark wild
romanticism with his new employer’s focus on white, recycling and
deconstruction.
A lower profile
The flamboyant designer — a superstar of the fashion world who has
dressed
the late Princess Diana as well as many Oscar night actresses in the past —
has adopted a low profile since joining Maison Margiela.
His London couture presentation “had already interested the whole world,
but it’s even more special for the pret-a-porter show, which lies at the
heart
of Maison Margiela’s identity,” said Stephane Wargnier, executive president
of
the French Couture Federation which organises Paris fashion.
“It will be fascinating to see how his work pays off here.” Another focus
of curiosity will be Nina Ricci’s collection presented on Saturday by
Guillaume Henry, who has recently arrived from Carven. The young designer,
in his thirties, is credited with reviving Carven’s fortunes during his
six-year tenure at the label.
“Carven was a label whose name was known, but for most people, its style
had been forgotten. Guillaume Henry pretty much reinvented it,” said
Wargnier.
Carven has yet to name its new artistic director for its women’s
collections, although industry journal Women’s Wear Daily has said that
Alexis
Martial, from Italy’s Iceberg, is a distinct possibility.
Another new start to look out for in Paris will be Guy Laroche, who
presents his first collection for US label Adam Andrascik, after replacing
artistic director Marcel Marongiu.
Four labels are also making their entry into the official calendar:
Parisian duo Each x Other, Denmark’s Anne Sofie Madsen who has worked with
Galliano and Alexander McQueen, Colombian Esteban Cortazar and France’s
Vanessa Seward, who has launched her own brand after several years with
APC.
The opening day will be dedicated to young designers, and Paris mayor
Anne
Hidalgo will visit the Duperre School where some 500 fashion, textiles and
design students are trained every year. (Anne-Laure Mondesert, AFP)
Photos:AFP and Vanity Fair
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