Imane Ayissi, who became the first designer from sub-Saharan Africa to
be named a guest on the official couture schedule when he made his couture
debut in January, has showcased a collection made entirely from scraps of
fabric from previous collections.
Entitled ‘Amal-Si’, which means “the great misfortune that befalls the
earth” in the Ewondo language of Cameroon, Imane Ayissi’s reduced
autumn/winter 2020-21 haute couture collection pays tribute to the
resilience of African societies, “their cleverness and frugality” while
also questioning the point of fashion in relation to the coronavirus
crisis.
The Covid-19 lockdown caused a few problems for the designer, as he
states that he works mainly with craftsmen based thousands of kilometres
away from his studio, which of course, due to the coronavirus he was unable
to work with.
But he adds that there was also more existential questions, asking
himself, what is the point of fashion when we only talk about essential
activities? Why create additional clothing when stores are closed and
overflowing with stocks of unsold clothes? Isn’t fashion directly
responsible for the degradation of the world through its negative impact on
the environment?
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This collection he states is an attempt to answer all these questions in
an “African way” as well as showcasing to the fashion industry “how and why
you continue to create when you have nothing left”.
Unable to source his usual fabrics made in other countries, he created
his pared-back collection “from nothing” utilising scraps of fabric from
previous collections and orders, which he explains were “destined for the
garbage”.
The aim, Ayissi adds was to magnify the simplicity of the materials
through handmade assembly and to showcase the “meticulous craftsmanship”.
To highlight sustainability and the uniqueness of each garment even
further, all the couture pieces from what he is calling the ‘manifesto
collection’ will be sold but in other fabrics, depending on the fabric
waste available to “reaffirm the need for creativity and to always
re-enchant reality, despite or because of the difficulties”.
Ayissi started his eponymous label in 2004 after relocating to Paris
from Cameroon in the 1990s to work as a dancer and model, where he walked
for the likes of Dior, Givenchy and Lanvin. His couture label has been worn
by Zendaya and Angela Bassett.
Images: courtesy of Imane Ayissi